Scarpetta or Papara? Or Papia! Papara! Tapa!

Wining & Dining In The Sun

Decided to book the Choriatiko Taverna (Aghia Marina Old Town, well village) because it gets busy even in the shoulder season. Of course it threw it down just as we set off. All the tables at the front got soaked in no time, so Dimitri managed to seat or queue everyone inside. Some ate their desserts where they stood while others were humoured with raki. Why not? After all the leaping from table to table I went for the goat.

The other taverna pictured, the Olivi, is also very popular and is usually full of returning visitors. Their specials are ridiculous value-for-money. Go for it!

Pics 1 - 6: The Mylonas Taverna (Old Mill), which is situated right opposite our apartments. Just cross the road & enjoy fantastic traditional cuisine. Eleni explained to me that the Greek equivalent of ‘scarpetta’ is ‘papara.’ (mopping up your gravy with bread). However, it also has another meaning for those people who behave a bit weird (dickhead). She further informed me that the local term for someone who is unsteady on their feet through drink is referred to as ‘tapa.’ (pissed). Nowt to do with Spanish food! Her brother, Haris, (pic 4) is sweeping up after closing and is not doing anything else.

Pic 7: Nikos’ own bar. We tried the bruschetta for lunch. Tasty, especially when washed down with a strawberry milkshake (laced with masticha).

Pic 8: The Palirria - Right on the beach this taverna provides interesting takes on traditional Greek dishes. The Chef’s Mistake is awesome. Lovely people again.

Pic 9 - 10: Romeos - missed this place the first year. Quite a find. Upmarket cuisine in a fairly casual environment. It offered everything from pizza to crazy tomahawk steaks. Portions can be massive, so beware or be hungry. That’s a remarkable take on kleftiko in the image, stunning. The other image is of one of the fish dishes.

Pic 11: A view from one bar, the delightful Level bar, towards the mad bar, Litinas, run by Nikos and his ever-smiling wife, Veronica.

Pic 12: Veronica, smiling, and Nikos, the barman & owner of Litinas cocktail bar. The owner of our apartments, Nikos, had been having a tough time. Despite rescuing a stray Bavarian duck (papia) and caring for it for weeks, he submitted to a nasty cold and, worn out by the season’s demands, took to the Jameson. He was cheered up the unexpected appearance of his daughter from university and hit the Litinas for solace. We were there hidden behind a pillar. He kept shouting, “Papia! Papia! Ma tee Papia!” (Duck! Duck! But what a duck!) He admired that bird. The more he consumed the more we all shouted “Papia!” Finally, I ended the gospel tennis by shouting out “Papia! Papara! Tapa!” (Duck! Dickhead! Pisshead!) We all roared. Nikos was suitably stunned into scotch silence. He took it well. He needed the blowout. He was shot to bits with exhaustion. We still text about the duck, for which he found a nice farm, full of other ducks. Amazing people.

So, now you know some funny Cretan expressions. But, remember, as they say in the Caribbean…..”Actions have consequences.”