The Isle of Skye & the Scottish Highlands
Sunset at Oban
The Itinerary
Edinburgh
Prior to the tour we stayed In the city for two nights in the Grassmarket area, which is excellent for pubs, bistros & restaurants. Pub-grub is good value. Service is quick and friendly. We ate in the quaintly-named The Last Drop the evening before we left. You’re surrounded by quite a few nooses as you devour your haggis, neeps & tatties. Nice.
Twenty
If ever you’re looking for a bit of up-market cuisine, give this place a shout. It’s upstairs in the Indigo Hotel. Fantastic food and service.
https://twentyprincesstreet.co.uk
The Last Drop
As mentioned above, great food, beers and a good vibe. Pie, Pint & a Noose.
Edinburgh to the West Coast
https://www.timberbush-tours.co.uk/private-tours
At nine o’clock prompt Chris collected us from outside our apartment in his Mercedes. Our cases went in the back and there was plenty of room for the four of us inside. We had air con and USB charging ports. Drinking water was provided too. Before we’d left Edinburgh Chris offered the first of many detours, as we turned down into the quaint village of Dean, with its old mills.
We then began the lengthy road-trip to Oban on the west coast. We pulled over near Newton to take photos of the Bridges in the distance, which link Edinburgh to the north. (see photo 1) Luckily the weather was outstanding, with cloudless skies. This had persisted for several days. Soon the Kelpies came into view on our left, with our guide giving a detailed description of this tale. It wasn’t even 10 a.m.
Luss on Loch Lomond
Around eleven we approached Alexandria on Loch Lomond and the small village of Luss. It was very busy here, since this is a coach-stop for all the Highland tours. The toilets are card-only! However, it’s worth a stop for the views across the loch. Chris drove us down a narrow lane and stopped at an old church, where he showed us an unusual Viking grave and explained the mystery behind it. (see photo 2) This sort of thing didn’t happen with the Vikings.
Then he parked near the pier, so we could explore the waterfront. More photos.(photos 3 & 4) The sky was clear and the views across the loch were spectacular. This was our first taste of what was to come. It was hard to believe we were so close to Glasgow.
Cairndow
At midday we arrived at Cairndow, a major viewing-point of the Highlands.(see photo 5) The view is awesome and features in many tour brochures.
Inverary
At one o’clock we hit the harbour-village of Inverary, which also has a castle. I had visited this castle when I was young but remembered nothing of the village on Loch Fyne. We were in need of sustinence now. It was the only morning we hadn’t time for a proper breakfast. Chris parked up and we headed for the Inverary Inn for bar snacks, meals and drinks. After food we sat outside with the drinks in the sunshine. I wandered off to take photographs. (see photos 6 & 7) Inverary was a popular stop for the tour-operators. The harbour and pier were from another era. The boats looked well-worn and sparse. It was a refreshing stop - a good shout from Chris! It became the norm to have an hour at least for lunch. Anyway, the food was amazing.
Kilchurn Castle
In the afternoon we pulled into a layby which had a coach-load of youthfully-challenged visitors littering the place. To our surprise, Chris hit the horn hard. Tourists leapt in shock. We had a parking space. There was a gate, which caused considerable difficulties for some of the old tourists from the coach. This gate allowed you to get closer to the Highland Cattle which were lazing on the meadow. Behind the stood Kilburn Castle on the loch. (see photo 8) We took several photos making sure not to disturb the cows. There was a warning sign to that effect. A fun stop in Dalmally!
Ganavan Sands, Oban
By late afternoon we were nearing our first destination and overnight stay. I had visited Oban years ago and taken a boat-trip to the Isle of Mull. The boat visited Iona, Fingal’s Cave and, of course, Tobermory. It rained.
“Anyone want to see the beach?” asked Chris. This was news to me. Beach? Oban? “Yeah. I’ll show you now!” We turned down into Oban, when we took a right turn. A couple of minutes later we were parked on the beach of Ganavan. People were sunbathing everywhere. (see photo 10) Some had burned their legs. We couldn’t believe it. Others were paddling in the sea. It was seawater here. April 29th in Scotland and it’s hot. The beach was a real surprise and one of the benefits of organising a ‘Bespoke Tour,’ so you can wander off the beaten track and see places coaches would find impossible.
Oban
A short while later we were dropped at the hotel, The Great Western. It had definitely seen its best days, but it was very comfortable, very warm, but with fantastic seaviews.
https://bespokehotels.com/great-western-hotel
Our lads decided to go for a walk to see McCaigs Tower, the Lighthouse and the beach again. We did the less-energetic harbour. (see photos 9) Then it was back to shower before heading out for our pre-booked dinner at the EE-USK seafood restaurant. (Pre-booking all hotels and evening meals is essential before you set off). EE-USK is a high-quality, quite expensive place, but very very popular. It’s the phonetic name for I-ASG, a fish, in Gaelic (pronounced Gallic). Chris had suggested that we might have a good sunset. (photo 11) He was not wrong. (one has already had over 100 views on a Google review)
The food was incredible: oysters, chorizo & scallops, fresh halibut, etc. And ridiculously-huge slices of lemon Cheesecake. Of cousre, it was washed down with wine. Mid-meal and post-meal we took dozens of photographs of the sunset. Birthday songs broke out sporadically for those hitting 70! Must be a strange feeling that.
Sated we wandered around the harbour, before descending on the Oban Inn for some night-caps. (photo 12) It had been a grand day and auspicious beginning to our Highland adventure.
Oban to Skye
As a result of the disastrous behaviour of West Coast Railways, our planned excursion on the Jacobite Steam Train was cancelled. (more on this below). The major benefit for us, however, was a lovely breakfast and a later departure. Also, Chris came up with an amended change to the itinerary which turned out to be more spectacular. Our ferry from Mallaig to Armadale had also been cancelled at short notice, so this allowed us to enter Skye by a different route.
We took the coastal road out of Oban and headed north.
Castle Stalker
About half an hour from Oban we pulled off the road. Across a small field and over an old railway track we found a sign offering information on this secluded castle. (see Photo 1) It’s on an island. Definitely worth a stop if you’re around.
Glen Coe
The site of another massacre by colonial friends, this must be one of the most-photographed locations in Scotland. The laybys get busy. The views are awesome in every direction. (see Photos 2 & 3) At this stage in the journey, you are most certainly in the true Highlands.
Glenfinnan Viaduct
Since we hadn’t been able to take the train over it, we decided to visit the viaduct itself. Again, this place gets busy. There is a cafe, some vans selling food and toilet facilities (free). It’s a fair stroll to the viaduct where people wait for the train in order to take photographs. There are two paths, one on the flat and one up on the hill for the adventurous. We did the flat track. There were signs saying that the train had been cancelled for the day! More like indefinitely!
The viaduct was quite impressive, especially in terms of its span, though it couldn’t shake a stick at the viaduct where I used to live in South Wales. Ironically, there are still a couple of viaducts near us, where there is no demand for tourism of this nature. Of course, Glenfinnan has been made famous by the Harry Potter films, in which I have zero interest. Same for the author. A load of Hogwart!
There is a huge tree stump into which people have smashed hundreds of coins. Bizarre. A small river gurgles gently beneath the arches and provides some calm and nice opportunities for photos.
It was worth stopping just to discover what the fuss is about. Anyway it was a useful comfort stop before lunch. (see Photos 4 & 5)
The Jacobite Steam Train & The Ferry
Enormous credit must go to West Coast Railways for the PR disaster of the decade. Required to fit central-locking on their carriages for health and safety reasons, they opted to go to court instead, losing the case and precious time which could have been spent on a refit. Lost revenue for the 2026 season could amount to £50 million. They also sold advance tickets for the current season. This should not have happened. Consequently, enthusiasts from all over the world have been disappointed. Photographs of the train going over Glenfinnan Viaduct adorn every travel brochure in Scotland. It’s a major pull.
Check out the press coverage online for this sordid tale of incompetence. It was supposed to be my birthday treat, too.
Our ferry from Mallaig to Armadale on Skye was also cancelled (the day before). Neither event spoiled our trip.
Fort William
We headed back down south for lunch at Fort William. On the way Chris told us his story of climbing Ben Nevis with his mates. They mad the mistake of celebrating the climb before they had done it. Needless to say, one dropped out before they attempted the ascent, preferring to sleep in the van. The only shot I have of Ben Nevis is from our vehicle. I’m surprised it came out. The road was bouncy and everything was shaking. (see Photo 6)
I haven’t include any photos of the Main Street or the car park. It’s like many other town centres. The toilets had been closed due to vandalism.
We ate at the Crofter, a busy pub, with a ‘sports’ bar feel, though the food and service were of an excellent nature. Why can’t anyone spell ‘sport?’
After some quality food, they under-charged us for the drinks. I informed them for which they were extremely grateful. Well, it was my birthday!
Spean Bridge & the Memorial
Shortly after two-fifteen we arrived in Kilmonivaig, otherwise known as Spean Bridge. Here there is a memorial to soldiers, a statue. There is also an immaculately-kept cemetery. Chris reached for his camera. When he did this, we knew there was something spectacular worth documenting. The lads often followed him to the best vantage spots for taking photographs. He was on a mission. (see Photo 7) He was trying to achieve the definitive image for every location. The weather was on his side and he was determined to make it count. On numerous occasions we benefited from his expertise and local knowledge.
Invergarry
Chris was just about to pull into a layby from where there was a spectacular view Loch Lochy (they must have been running out of ideas when they named this one!), when he was blocked by one of his Timberbush buses. He was a bit miffed. Nevertheless he found another just a few hundred yards up the road. We all piled out and took photos. (see Photo 8)
Further amusement was provided by the driver of a foreign vehicle who attempted to reverse while narrowly avoiding striking several vehicles.
As we drove on towards Skye, the mountains rose high on either side. Chris explained we were nearing the range called ‘Five Sisters,’ peaks, three of which he had conquered. He was quite proud of this achievement, but pointed out that, in order to complete them, he had to go up one, then down, the up, then……and so on. Nightmare. We were pleased to have a guide, then, with such experience of the land.
Dornie & Eilean Donan Castle
As a result of our ferry being cancelled we had more time to explore. We arrived at Dornie and turned off the road. Here we had alternative and spectacular views of Eilean Castle, which you would not get just by visiting the castle itself. We were on the opposite side of the water and could take dozens of quality photos. The weather was still behaving. It was sunny and warm for the time of year. Chris even found some small crabs to show us, declaring he had found his supper.
We crossed the winding bridge (built in two Parts) into Skye. The real trip had begun.
Sligachan Bridge, Isle of Skye
The sun was still blazing down as we reached our next official stop, Sligachan Bridge. There are two bridges here, one older than the other. It’s a fantastic place, popular with campers. There is a stream running underneath the bridge whose waters contain magical powers. If you dip your head under the water seven times, you will gain eternal youth. Yeah! I was up for a bit of that. There was already someone lurching near the water, like a beached walrus, attempting this while trying not to fall in. Chris had informed us that one of his passengers had fallen in a few years before.
I just wet my face seven times. Remarkably, a birth mark on my arm, which had started becoming painfully sore the day before (and which had turned purple), completely vanished that night! I didn’t have the nerve to tell Chris. Wonder if there’s something in those waters?
Anyway, the photographs from under the bridge there were stunning. Skye promised to be special.
Portree
The pubs in Portree were buzzing when we arrived at tea-time. Everyone was sitting outside basking in the glorious weather. There was no hint of the four-seasons-in-a-day version of Skye. Our lads couldn’t wait to join them. We booked into the Royal near the harbour and they set out for a pint in the 1820 opposite.
The Royal Hotel, Portree
The Royal has a number of renovated rooms with excellent seaviews. Ours even had electric sockets with both USB A & USB C type connection. Awesome. The lads had a twin which hadn’t been renovated yet (and without the USBs). But they did have a seaview, too.
We joined them for a drink before dinner.
https://www.royalhotel.scot
Dulse & Brose Restaurant
Birthday night. So, we had prearranged a meal at this outstanding restaurant in the Bosville Hotel, which was just up the road.
We had lamb, venison and duck (not all together). All were excellent. Service was friendly and swift. Can highly recommend.
When we left, the sky was still clear and the moon was right above us. It was a photo waiting to happen. Amazing fortune. The result is below. Again, this was a complete fluke. The weather is rarely like that, if at all.
On the way back we popped into the Tongadale Hotel for a couple of late drinks. We retired to bed while the lads went off to the Isles pub for a deserved nightcap and some late entertainment from a Glaswegian drunk.
Moon reflected on the water, Portree
Tour Of Skye
This was the highlight of our trip. Skye is a strange island, littered with ancient volcanoes and with paleolithic memories from the Jurassic period. It’s hard to believe that this landscape had been inhabited by dinosaurs. On the day of our tour the clouds had returned but there was no sign of rain. The sun did its best to break through on several occasions.
Torvaig, Highland Cattle
The first stop was a short distance from the hotel at Torvaig. In a field close to the road were several well-kept Highland cattle who were feeding. They were so close you couldn’t fail to get a decent photo. (see photo 1) They are impressive beasts.
The Old Man of Storr
As we approached, Chris told us to take photographs from distance, since that would better show the dramatic slicing and lean of the pillar of Storr in an image. (photo 2) So he stopped and he was correct. The Old Man leaned towards the sea obediently. Storr means ‘star.’ I’ll spare you the phallic connotations of ‘old man.’
Chris told us that filming had been going on there some weeks prior and that tourists couldn’t access the place. It is the one site which does have public conveniences, too. Unlucky. It was busy there even though it was early. We moved on.
The Filming of Highlander, Kilt Rock
Our next scheduled stop was the Cliffs at Kilt Rock. Apparently the cliffs resemble a kilt. They would, wouldn’t they? Chris muttered something inaudible. There was a problem. We slowed down. Disappointment shrouded his face. “Damn!'“ he blurted. “I didn’t think they’d still be here.” Where there was a car park for visitors were cranes and tarpaulins spreading everywhere. “They’re still filming Highlander,” he explained. The cliffs were a non-starter. So, that’s the train, the ferry and now Kilt Rock cancelled. Was Skye going to be a damp squib?
An Corran Beach, Staffin
My trusted research had told me that ‘corran’ was a spear, so anything ‘pointed’ could be named like that. In Staffin the land formed a point, hence its name. We drove down a long, twisting, narrow road which clung to the hillside as it met the sea below. We arrived at a parking area and jumped out of the vehicle to explore. This was dinosaur-territory. Many discoveries have been made here, including huge footprints on the beach. There is also a dinosaur museum on Skye, if you have the time. Again Chris muttered something. “The tide is in. I won’t be able to show you the footprint. That’s a shame!”
It didn’t really matter. It was a fascinating place with a definite atmosphere. People often refer to the alien feel of Skye’s peculiar landscape and it certainly felt nothing like Scotland or anywhere in the UK. It was stark and dark. (photo 3) The sand was ashen. The imagination filled in the gaps. Time-travelling.
Then it was time for the party to split up. Chris had weighed up, overnight, the best way for the lads to hike and for us to see something different. In that way they would have enough time to enjoy a good hike while we could take a circuitous route to meet them later.
We drove up some steep, narrow roads into the hills which make up the Quiraing. I didn’t think that we also would benefit from the incredible views, but the main car park is right up in the mountain. I took advantage of the short time for the drop-off to take some stunning photos. Chris took off with the boys.
Hiking the Quiraing
The Quiraing has to be one of the most incredible places in Scotland and is regarded as one of the best walks anyone can do. Chris suggested to do one of the shorter routes. He led them up the slopes to explain the various options and gave them a couple of hours. The weather was very kind and cloud was high, though grey.
They set off and we departed for Duntulm Castle. After we left, Chris regretted that he hadn’t offered them more time.
You can see some of the photographs they took in the gallery above. (photos 4 & 5) Simply spectacular.
If the weather is poor when you attempt this or, if the mist rolls in, you must have a compass and appropriate gear. There are some dangerous landslips on these hills.
Duntulm Castle
While the two lads went hiking we drove further north to the ruined castle of Duntulm. Overlooking a natural cove and the open sea to the north-west, it provided some spectacular views. (photo 6) We parked up and walked through a gate. We crossed some grassland and soon entered the castle ruins. There were not many stones left since they had been acquired for other use over the centuries. It still retained several rooms including a dungeon. Chris related a horror story.
A maid was standing near an open window where there was a sheer drop down to the rocks and sea below. She was holding a baby. The baby wriggled and she dropped it out of the window. Accidents will happen. As punishment, she was put on a boat alone and cast adrift on the open sea. True.
The castle is close to the road and well worth a visit, since the views out to sea compensate for a substantial structure.
The Museum of Island Life
There’s a large car park here, a cafe, some Highland cattle and a shop which leads to the museum-area. You pay in the shop if you wish to explore the museum. The museum is not a building, but a series of traditional huts. (photo 7) In each is a tale of life gone by. Some huts contain historic information, some prehistoric. Others have a more modern feel showing how life was in the 1950s. There are life-size dummies of real people from history, such as Bonnie Prince Charlie, cross-dressing to boot. The walls have much textual information to read and there are numerous displays of relics and objects from different eras. Initially I was unsure if it was worth entering, but it was a surprise and more fascinating than you would think. Entrance was £8 per person.
The shop sells the usual nonsense but also had an extensive set of interesting books. The salesperson was also very friendly and natural. We exchanged some useful bits of information. I mentioned an interesting language podcast for her (one guest on the podcast was an expert in Gaelic) and she recommended a book on Gaelic which I bought. Sound. If you’re interested in anything to do with languages then hit the link below.
https://dannybate.com/podcast/
Then it was time to catch up with Chris.
We continued a circular route over some very dodgy terrain to collect the lads. The sun had returned on the Quiraing and, as we neared the refreshment van in the car park, we could see them sitting down near the roadside. The were tired but beaming. They had completed the full circuit of the mountain in one hour forty minutes. Chris was suitably impressed and relieved that he hadn’t short-changed them for time. The boys thanked him and assured him that it wouldn’t have mattered anyway.
Uig Hotel
We did a quick tour of Uig harbour, where ferries still go to the Hebrides. (see photo 8) We hit the hotel at a perfect time for lunch before the coach loads arrived. It’s a traditional quality hotel. The food again was excellent.
The Fairy Glen, Balnacnoc
After lunch Chris took us to his favourite location. This place gets mixed reviews but it definitely has its own unique charm. Some say it was built by fairies, with its odd conical mounds. It resembles a hobbit village. (photos 9, 10 & 11) Weird circles also adorn the landscape, created by fairies or aliens (watch that single malt). There was a fair bit of walking to do and even more climbing. I had decided on the mountain boots, but they were useless on the narrow slopes where you needed a more nimble approach. Some decent-soled trainers would have been more appropriate, especially when passing other people on narrow strips or avoiding fast-running, annoying kids.
Some of the mounds had rocky outcrops, which weren’t easy to navigate. You needed to be fit and slim. One resembles a castle ruin, hence its name Castle Ewen. We passed several older people who had given up climbing or walking. It is a deceiving location which sprawls for a fair distance. It’s quite a hike from the car park and there are no conveniences. If you’re lucky, you will encounter a bloke relieving himself right on the road.
We liked the Faerie Glen. It certainly had that alien vibe or the fantasy mise-en-scene. Allow plenty of time for exploration. A definite hit.
Balnaknoc is a perfect description.
Talisker Distillery
By now we were all exhausted from our various walks and climbs. Chris offered to take us to the Fairy Pools, but asked what we wanted to do. One of the lads had tasted and enjoyed some Talisker whisky in Edinburgh and suggested visiting the distillery at Carbost so he could buy a limited edition bottle. We all agreed that it was a sound plan. Also, it wasn’t far from Chris’ earlier intended route.
The distillery had a large shop with an extensive range of unique products, which you would be unlikely to get elsewhere. They also sold clothing, golf-related souvenirs and books.
I decided to walk down to the loch to take some more photographs before it got too gloomy. (photo12)
The limited edition was purchased accordingly.
https://www.malts.com/en-gb/distilleries/talisker
Portree
It had been a full day. We had covered a few kilometres there. Upon our return we quickly dumped our bags and switched shoes, before heading for the Pier Hotel by the harbour for a well-earned bevvy. The bar was tiny with a number of locals enjoying a late Friday afternoon pint. The conversation was convivial and humorous. It seemed Fridays here held the same degree of weekend promise. Great setting, harbourside.
Outside there were many boards offering boat-trips from Portree. Wild life trips are very popular, especially if you catch glimpses of dolphins or whales.
The Ridge Restaurant
Again we had prebooked. We didn’t want to be wandering around looking for a place to eat after a hard day’s walking. Reservations are essential in Portree.
The Ridge is on the second floor of the Rosedale Hotel, which is also on the harbour. The views from the restaurant are very pleasant. The food was incredible. The menu offered Fish ‘n Chips and Beef Cheek which was sensational. Considering the Ridge has a limited menu, it focuses on excellence rather than quantity. I have always maintained that this is best practice in any eatery. There was only one waitress, too. Fantastic job. Portree gets my vote for hospitality.
Portree to Pitlochry
So, the Skye leg was done. Apart from the rearranged visit to the castle below, we had a fairly fluid itinerary from hereon in.
Eilean Donan Castle Visit
On the Saturday morning we had prearranged a visit to Eilean Donan Castle on our way from Skye. There is a large, still-inhabited castle with an interesting history. (see photo 1, taken from the carpark). It can get busy since larger vehicles can access this famous place. Unfortunately, it was rammed when we arrived. The ticket office was doing a roaring trade in audio books for tourists. Inside stewards were often holding people back on the staircases to allow others back down. Still it didn’t disappoint. The current occupants have a space in the lower part of the castle. I felt nothing but pity for them, especially their children.
I preferred the walk outside where you could complete a circuit of the castle while grabbing more photos. We stopped there for some time before Chris had one of his usual surprises for us.
“Enough of this,” he said. “Let’s get a better look of the castle from up there,” and pointed to some nearby hills.
Kyle, The Hill
We left the car park and almost immediately turned off the main road. In minutes we were up in the hills overlooking Eilean Donan Castle. The views were astonishing. Chris certainly knew his way around. He grabbed his camera and began to march off in the direction a rounded hillock, with the lads in tow. We knew we would get some great photos again. (photos 2, 3 & 4) He’s constanttly on the search for his perfect image of any location. You can see the three of them standing on the hillock wondering which way to point the camera. You’re in awe of the landscape all the time.
Fort Augustus, Loch Ness
I had always wanted to visit Loch Ness. We knew it was the least-interesting place on our excursion, but it had to be done. We decided to have lunch at Fort Augustus to break up what was a long drive that day. There are numerous locks on the canal there and a surprisingly large number of boats waiting to pass through. Crowds of tourists meandered the whole village in search of refreshments. We avoided some dodgy-looking traps and made for the amusingly-named Lock Inn. The food was fantastic and we just about beat the descending hordes from the coaches.
The weather was fine there, though ominous clouds appeared in the distance. We took some reasonable shots of the loch, but, unfortunately, managed none of any plesiosaurs or megalodons. (photos 5, 6, 7 & 8)
After lunch Chris took a tricky B-road north hugging the coast of the loch. There was a half-marathon being staged and we kept seeing the water-stops and stewards at various points. It was hard-going for Chris who had to concentrate to avoid sheep, pot-holes and other vehicles on the narrow stretches. We just enjoyed the scenery. We were heading for the Cairngorms.
Loch Morlich Beach, Cairngorms
As we turned south the rain which had been threatening all day hit the windscreen. It landed with more force by mid-afternoon and there was a general feeling of resignation that our trip was coming to a natural conclusion. We had had a good run for our money. It fell a tad silent.
Out of nowhere Chris shouted, “Anyone fancy another beach?” We couldn’t believe it. Bewildered looks all round.
“Sure.” Nothing to lose.
He turned off the dual carriageway and drove through some pine forests. Bizarrely the rain eased off and the sky became less forboding. Suddenly we rounded a bend and entered a large car park. A fairly large building loomed in the near distance. “This is Lake Morlich,” announced Chris. “There’s a huge beach here, boats, kayaks and all sorts going on.” (photos 9 & 10)
There were dozens of young children on an outward bound excursion. Some were on bicycles, others were in the lake or playing football on the beach. There was a cafeteria upstairs and a bit of a party atmosphere. This was a real surprise. Apparently, this was all a part of the Glenmore Forest Park in the Cairngorms. Chris even offered to take us up to the railway but, as it was getting late, we decided to take a short forest walk past Glenmore Visitor Centre and the Cairngorm Reindeer park before we headed off to a next overnight location.
Glenmore Visitor Centre & Reindeers
We got out of the vehicle and wandered off down the trail, passing groups who were prepared for a long hike. We had gone past that stage and opted for a short walk in the forest. (photo 11 & 12) We caught a glimpse of some the deer they hold at the centre. Most are roaming free up in the hills. You can book to see them in their habitat for a few hours, if you wish. Their bodies are whiter than you’d imagine.
Pitlochry
We thought it wiser to try to reach Pitlochry before evening. In any case, Chris looked like he needed the break. Our hotel had a renowned restaurant, a fish ‘n chip shop built-in and ‘live’ evening entertainment. We pulled over opposite the hotel. Pitlochry was heaving with traffic. It was typical Saturday tea-time chaos. Immediately, the police spotted us and ordered Chris to shift. He obeyed and moved but we didn’t have to walk too far to McKays. So we spilled out with our luggage and bade Chris goodbye.
We came down for our evening meals a bit later and bumped into Chris. He had gone to his hotel, where someone had booked him in for the previous night! So, luckily, they managed to book him in with us. The food was outstanding, but the less said of the live band the better. The local drunks were quite entertaining.
McKays Hotel & Restaurant
Pitlochry to Edinburgh
The final day. We had tried to pre-book a visit to the local distillery here but there were no slots which conveniently matched our itinerary. So we had a lie-in and took advantage of yet another superb Scottish breakfast. The chefs kept piling more hot food into their silver bowls. Outstanding. Can’t fault the cuisine in McKays!
Dunkeld
We took a short detour to have a very quick look around the village of Dunkeld. There were several cyclists stopped by the roadside in a huddle. One of the youngsters had come off and an ambulance was in attendance.
Dunkeld is a quaint place with some interesting buildings. Reminded me of the kind of market-towns near us where couples go for bar-snacks on a Saturday evening.
The Hermitage Walk & The Ossian Hut
This walk is well-documented online, but it’s much better than the photographs suggest. We took many videos of the dramatic Black Linn waterfalls, as the river crashed downstream. When you arrive at the car park near the river Braan, there is little hint of what lies ahead. It’s not that far to walk until you hear the roar of the water. There are two paths to take, one alongside the river and another steeper one which arrives at the Ossian hut. Ah! The Ossians. At this point I should like to recommend books by the Scottish author Doug Johnstone, one of which is aptly called ‘The Ossians.’ His ‘sci-fi’ (I prefer the term ‘What if’ myself) stuff is great fun.
Dating back to the eighteenth century, the hut and its surroundings were intended to be a pleasure place for the Dukes of Atholl. It doesn’t matter which route you take to reach it. Both are comfortable twenty-minute strolls. There are giant fir trees, too, Douglas Firs, introduced years before. It’s a great place and one of our favourite locations on the trip.
(photos 1, 2, 3 & 4)
Scone Palace
Prounced ‘skoon,’ the palace is renowned for the connection to coronations of kings. I lost count of the number of times that Chris explained the Coronation Stone had been stolen. Apparently no monarch can be crowned unless on this stone. Ridiculous, I know. You hear about a massacre in Scotland and it sounds bad. After the third or fourth, you become somewhat revulsed by the colonialist treachery and English barbarism. It’s utterly disgusting.
We didn’t stop at Scone for long. It has no connection to cakes, as far as I know. [means ‘cut’ or ‘cutting’]
(photo 5)
St. Andrews Golf Course
We pulled up alongside the famous old course of St. Andrews. It was a strange feeling to realise you were looking at the same scene you saw on TV when you watched the Open as a kid. Amazingly, there were hordes of tourists trampling all over the course. Chris explained that the course has a deal, where anyone can walk across the land on certain times. My experience of golf courses is a bit different, since you usually get ejected for breathing near one. We needed the nineteenth hole.
(photo 6)
St. Andrews Castle & Cathedral
We did a couple of circuits of the town to catch a glimpse of the old castle and cathedral. Our lads decided that they would walk back there to explore after we parked. We made for the headland overlooking the beach. We ate some snacks there while avoiding the seagulls which were expertly dive-bombing anyone with grub. Naturally, there were students everywhere in town and we wondered what they must do for entertainment. Clearly, Bruce Springsteen wasn’t going to rock up.
St. Andrews Beach
The wind was very wild and the beach looked too far to explore in those conditions, so we took our photos and went in search of a warming pot of tea.
(photos 7 & 8)
Kingsbarns Distillery Tour
I had booked the distillery visit a couple of weeks prior to the tour. It’s a smaller-scale set-up but very welcoming and very educational, too. The fascinating production process is explained in detail by an enthusiastic guide. You are also shown a short video about how they produce the ingredients. Fife has some excellent conditions for harvesting all the necessary components for superb whisky. Apparently, there is plenty of sunshine in Fife and the local aquifers provide quality water for the ingredients.
The tour had a maximum of around twenty guests which was just right. The tasting was fun, with three different types offered, a light floral one which was pleasant, a treacle type for Xmas, and a smoky one, for which you need an acquired taste. I’m no fan of whisky, but I learned so much about blends, single malts and the production of alcohol generally.
They have a shop there and cafeteria. I have included the website below, if you’re tempted to purchase a gift or bottle for yourself. The prices are very resonable.
(photo 9)
https://www.kingsbarnsdistillery.com
At the distillery we had a brief committee-meeting with our driver, Chris. We suggested that, since we had an evening meal booked in Edinburgh, we should carry on south rather than return to St Andrews. He liked the idea and came up with another plan instantly.
“Let’s explore the Fife coastline, then,” he beamed. “It’s on our way.” Even the sun attempted to come back out.
Here’s a brief description of some of the seaside villages we encountered that afternoon.
Crail
A quaint harbour-village, reminiscent of places like Brixham in Devon. You can even purchase all kinds of seafood snacks, fresh. (photo 10)
Anstruther
A little further down the coast lies Anstruther, though most of the smaller places come under its remit, geographically. (photos 11 & 12)
Elie
Elie is a good spot to explore on a lazy Sunday afternoon. Winding narrow streets and bars to entertain everyone.
Largo & Robinson Crusoe
The statue of Alexander Selkirk welcomes the visitor here. Selkirk is widely-considered the real Robinson Crusoe, or at least, the inspiration for the novel. He even asked to be abandoned on his desert island. A crazy tale. Check it out on the web. Largo is quite sizeable and worth exploring.
Fife has an inspiring coastline.
Soon we were crossing the very bridge we had photographed in Newton at the start of our journey. We were heading back to our headquarters at Motel One on Market Street. From there it’s just a short stroll up Cockburn Street to the excellent Italian bistro, Ecco Vino.
The photos in the Gallery (above):
1. Inverary Inn
2. Oysters at EE USK, Oban
3. Huge cheesecake at EE USK
4. Glenfinnan Viaduct
5. Kilmonivaig
6. Sligachan Bridge
7. Sligachan Bridge
8. The 1820, Portree
9. Fairy Glen, Skye
10. Loch Ness
11. Menu browsing, Ecco Vino, Edinburgh
12. Birthday massive tiramisu, Ecco Vino
Our fantastic guide and driver , Chris, is pictured in photo 7 above. We owe him enormous gratitude.
Also, thanks to Sandy at Timberbush Tours for the time and effort in organising such an amazing and unforgettable adventure for us.
Exploring the Highlands is a must-do!
Edinburgh
Motel One, Market Street, Edinburgh
https://www.motel-one.com/en/hotels/edinburgh/hotel-edinburgh-royal
Ecco Vino, Cockburn Street, Edinburgh
https://www.eccovinoedinburgh.com
If ever you venture south down to Bruntsfield & Morningside, you must try the Black Ivy or the eccentric Cannymans below. I definitely saw a woman floating near the ceiling in there and I hadn’t started drinking!
Canny Mans, Morningside
https://www.cannymans.co.uk
The Gothic Spaceship, Edinburgh