Apokoronos

Chania Experience Tours

We returned to Crete in the Autumn of 2025. We contacted Giannis before we left home to arrange another of his fantastic day tours. I suggested west again. He firmly said that we should explore east of Chania. He wins!

This time the itinerary he created was even more spectacular. It was to become a very full and memorable day.

Apokoronos is situated to the east of Chania. It stretches from Souda through Georgioupolis and as far south as the Imbros Gorge. There is plenty to see and do here. Giannis had planned a very full day.

St George Monastery

We arrived at the monastery quite early. Since it was a Saturday (Sabbath), there was a service ongoing. Discretion was therefore a necessity. It is situated not far from the dual carriageway near Vrysses. We were invited to observe part of the service before exploring the extensive ruins. (All pictured in the gallery below). There were views across to the White Mountains. I particularly liked the banana tree growing wild near some steps (photo 8). You can see the huge stones used for pressing.

Vaphes & The Old Olive Press

It was still early when we reached the tiny village of Vaphes. Here there is one of the oldest olive-pressing ‘museums’ in Crete. It is kept locked by one of the villagers who has the key. We waited outside the local kapheneion until he came. We nibbled a sandwich I had brought. We saw ‘dragon fruit’ growing in the trees.

Finally, the man came with the keys and opened up for us. Giannis had arranged this. He enquired where we were from and smiled saying that some Welsh people who had stayed in the village had just left that morning. Small world. In we went to explore. It was in remarkable nick. In photo 6 you can see the marks made by the workers to record their activities for wages. There several areas where you could see these. We also had plenty of time to explore the village, real Crete.

Then we drove off to a larger village on a river, Vrysses.

Vrysses

Not to be confused with the village near Platanias (where terrible reprisals had been carried out in WW2), this was a pleasant surprise. It reminded me of places like Crickhowell or Bourton-on-the-Water with its bridge over the river and tavernas running alongside. Taverna Gephyra was suitable named. Although the water levels were low, there were pools teeming with ducks, geese and swans. We certainly weren’t expecting a place like this in the Cretan countryside. Giannis had wandered off while we went under the bridge (gephyra). He soon returned smiling. He had bought some kalitsounia for us all, since we had missed breakfast for the early start. These are like samosas or small triangular pasties. Some contained vegetables with herbs and spice or minced meat. They are delicious when freshly-cooked like this.

Most villages have a war memorial. This one was no different. They do not forget.

Lake Kournas

We had heard of our next stop. Many travel agents offer a half-day or full-day tour to this location. Giannis fitted it in among all those other stops in just one day.

Lake Kournas is well-known in that part of Crete. It is a huge pond supporting an array of wildlife, such as water fowl and turtles. It is a freshwater lake. On arrival you will be harrangued by many locals tempting you to hire pedaloes or kayaks, usually for short times, half an hour or an hour. If you want to see the turtles on the opposite side of the lake, you will need more than one hour! There are many shops and tavernas open for business. One even had meat roasting “anticristo-style” on skewers under glass. That meat can be tough and is an acquired taste. Cretans love it.

We walked around the lake, rejecting the numerous advances for pedalo-hiring. We had more to do than laze on a lake. Some people were falling unceremoniously off kayaks as they neared the shore, which was quite entertaining. Strange stone monuments had been erected in many places by previous visitors, giving off an alien-planet vibe. The mountains rose up on all sides as the light frequently switched because of errant clouds. Great for photographers. We stayed for about an hour. That’s probably sufficient, if you’re not swimming or pedalling. Definitely worth a visit.

Georgioupolis

It was time to head off in the direction of our lunchtime stop, so Giannis headed for the coast. There are several popular resorts on this part of the northern coastline, including Kalyves, Almyrida and Georgioupolis. We parked right on the beachfront at Georgioupolis (very briefly), just to see the beach and get a feel for the place. The beach is fairly small by comparison with other Cretan strands but was full of holiday-makers enjoying the sunshine. It had been gloomy back at Aghia Marina where we were staying, so we had definitely gone in the right direction that day. Photographs done, we drove up into the mountains, instead of taking the easy main road.

Mountain Villages

The drive took us through Exopoli, Kefalas & Drapanos, with its very narrow streets. Be prepared to back up there. There’s only room for one! Eventually we reached Kokkino Chorio. ‘Kokkino’ means red. The land everywhere was red. Apt name. Giannis turned off the road onto a dirt track. Now we were rallying.

Kokkino Chorio & Koutalas Cave

In a short distance he parked near a cove, called Koutala. In shape it resembles the cove at Seitan Limani. Giannis led us to some steps with a sheer drop either side. The hand-railings had collapsed years before and there was no support if you risked the steps down. “Down there, “ said Giannis. “That’s where the seacave of Koutalas is.” I thought about the hopeless soles on my trainers which were slick on rocks. I wanted to see the cave but there was no way my trainers were safe on those jagged steps. “I’m not going,” said my partner. I was up for it, but couldn’t think of how to beat those dodgy first five steps which had chunks missing.

“I’ve an idea,” suggested Giannis. “Put your hands on the back of my shoulders for balance.”

Brilliant. Greek thinking!

Off we went, down the steps. I didn’t need the support after we passed the dodgy part. It was worth the effort. The steps spiralled down to the sea and twisted to the right, then left, until we reached a huge cave. The sea came crashing in with wave after wave spitting foam everywhere. This is where Giannis excels, finding locations coach parties can never reach. We both took videos. I asked him if he had ever attempted to swim from the cave. Of course he had. Mad. Asked him how.

“It’s complicated,” he replied laconically. Greeks, eh?

The photos above give you some idea of the unique drama of this place, but really you should seek it out if possible. But…….be careful!

Almyrida

It had been a long morning. It was time for lunch.

Giannis had arranged to stop at Almyrida at the fish taverna, Psaros, on the seafront. We had already planned for fresh fish. I decided to go for a swim. I checked that it was ok to change in the main building to avoid wetting the seats in the restaurant area. The beach is excellent and is a prime holiday destination.

The taverna is first class. So was the food. you have to wait longer for a fresh fish but it’s worth it. The waiter debones it at the table. It’s still not a fillet, though!

As we devoured the tasty fish and vegetables, washed down with some quality krasi, we discussed the trip. It was hard to believe how much we had seen and crammed into a few hours. It had been another terrific itinerary designed by Giannis from Chania Experience Tours. (Link to their website at the foot of the page)

While we were eating the clouds rolled in, but it was still fair.

Kalyves to Chania

After a pleasant lunch break it was time to head back west. We took the coast road towards Souda. We passed through another popular tourist destination, Kalyves. It’s a small village with several hotels and plenty of studios. We drove right past the famous butcher shop with its renowned sausages!

As we approached Souda Giannis asked if we fancied a detour on the way back to our apartments. A surprise? Why not?

So, off we go around Souda Bay. We recognised the airport road. You are usually in a sombre mood on this road at the end of your holiday. But we were near the start of ours. It felt strange. However, at the main roundabout at the top of the hill, we turned left, rather than straight on to the airport. A few minutes later we pulled into a large car park. We had arrived at our surprise destination. We got out and could see that we were high up above Chania. We were at the tomb of Venizelos.

The Monument Of Eleftheria Venizelos

This is a spectacular place. There are immaculate buldings, an old church and various important monuments. Most important is the famous statue of Eleftheria Venizelos, the first premier of Greece. There were many cats wandering around. Giannis also explained that this is where many couples do their courting and chance a first kiss. There’s a peaceful atmosphere. There was a bonus. He knew where the toilets were! The monuments are enclosed by tall trees and there are several pathways to explore.

The view down to the sea was spectacular. Chania looked like a Lego town. Two cruise liners happened to be passing by the port.

Giannis had pulled another rabbit out of the hat.

The it was really time to head back. He hadn’t quite finished. He took us down through Chania, pointing out where had grown up, where his office had been near the renovated market, then back out via the impressive old harbour walls. We went through the New Port area until we connected with the coast road back to Aghia Marina.

What a magnificent trip!

We were just in time for an afternoon beer in our own bar right on the beach. Yiammas! Giannis!

Here’s the link for the private tours. Highly recommend.

https://chaniaexperiencetours.com